I have two tips with regards to the chassis-to-pod link arms.
First I would advise that you open up the internal diameter of the top of the hole for the ball just a little. The ball is going to be inserted from the bottom anyway. I am taking about 0.1 to 0.2mm away here with a body reamer.
The objective is to be able to tip the link moulding from left to right without the top flange of the hole binding on the upper surface of the metal ball.
First I would advise that you open up the internal diameter of the top of the hole for the ball just a little. The ball is going to be inserted from the bottom anyway. I am taking about 0.1 to 0.2mm away here with a body reamer.
The objective is to be able to tip the link moulding from left to right without the top flange of the hole binding on the upper surface of the metal ball.
Secondly.... The link clamp screws MUST clear the material on the outside of the moulding and thread into the material on the inside. If this screw is threading into the plastic both sides of the slit then it is never going to act as a clamp.
So what I am doing is using a drill or other tool to just open up the hole on the outside of the slit so that the thread will only bite on the inside. In this way you will get a clamping action with minimal effort on the screw. If you dont do this, you will strip the fine hex head sooner or later... I have warned you!
Cheers
Mark
So what I am doing is using a drill or other tool to just open up the hole on the outside of the slit so that the thread will only bite on the inside. In this way you will get a clamping action with minimal effort on the screw. If you dont do this, you will strip the fine hex head sooner or later... I have warned you!
Cheers
Mark
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